Wine pairing with sushi

Sushi is a challenging pairing not because of the fish but because of the rice, the soy, and the wasabi. The combination of umami, salt, heat, and the delicacy of the raw fish all pull in different directions. The wines that work are those with enough acidity to handle the soy and enough subtlety not to overwhelm the fish.

Why some wines fail with sushi

Tannic reds clash badly with raw fish -- the combination produces a metallic, unpleasant flavour. Heavily oaked whites compete with the delicacy of the fish. High-alcohol wines amplify the heat of wasabi. All three are worth avoiding.

What works

Dry, high-acid whites are the most reliable pairing. A dry Riesling handles the soy and wasabi without competing with the fish. Champagne and sparkling wine are excellent choices -- the acidity cuts through soy and the bubbles work with the texture of raw fish.

Rose and light reds

A dry rose -- particularly from Provence -- works better with sushi than most reds. The acidity handles the soy, the light fruit does not compete with the fish, and the style is versatile enough for a mixed sushi platter.

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